Relocating to South America - Living in Bolivia

Bolivia is one of those countries that frustrates you intocenter (but only has been for about 12 years) and
loving it. Given enough time, its quirkiness is whatSanta Cruz (population 1.6 million) just recently became
makes you keep coming back for more. As thethe largest city in the country. Its growth is fueled by
second poorest country in Latin America, anmass immigration from the West and massive oil and
adventurous spirit is a must, even if you enjoy a verygas fields that are Bolivia's main source of income for
high standard of living. Certain necessities like roadthe moment. This one state alone contributes nearly
infrastructure, public transport and traffic safety are40% of the GNP. The problem lies in that its economy
not the best and the supply of gasoline and natural gasis supporting most of the rest of the nation and with
(used by almost everyone for cooking) can bewhat remains it can't maintain or build new
unreliable at times. Lately politics have been ratherinfrastructure fast enough to keep up with its own
volatile.growth.
Bolivia is like two countries in one, both physically andYounger foreigners and their children tend to thrive
culturally. The differences are so noticeable it's just nothere. There are large American, British, German, Dutch,
possible to describe the country as a whole.and Japanese expat communities here as well as
West-Central Andean Bolivia (with its primarily Spanish,thousands of Mennonite families. Santa Cruz has more
Quechua and Aymara population) was the country'sprivate schools and universities per capita than any
center of wealth for over 400 years but has taken aother city (most built during the past 12 years). There
slight downturn. Still, it is culturally and historically rich.are several all-English schools here. Many expats mix
Many foreigners enjoy the comfortable moderatequite well with the local culture. Because it is warm 9-10
climate of Cochabamba (population 600,000), which ismonths of the year, most of the population spends a
most often compared to Cuenca, Ecuador in terms oflot of time outdoors and the city is filled with sidewalk
altitude, climate, architecture, and culture. Expats herecafés, open-air restaurants and great night
tend to mix quite well with the locals and 'adopt' anclubs. There are numerous open markets and
upper to middle class Bolivian lifestyle. Many stay andsupermarkets, shopping malls, country clubs and import
marry Bolivians, making 'Cocha' their second home.stores. Most families find it fairly easy to live and work
You'll find that in La Paz too, but La Paz is morehere (although rental costs are just slightly lower than
'international' with large and very active (and muchin the U.S.) and the locals from Beni to Santa Cruz to
more temporary or mobile) expat communities that,Tarija tend to be very hospitable. The international
with the exception of aid workers and missionaries,communities are mostly linked to business and
often don't make great attempts to mix with the locals.agencies for cooperation.
You must take the extreme altitude of La Paz, theCulturally Eastern Bolivia is different from the Andean
world's highest capital city, into account. At nearlyWest in that the Aymara and Quechua population is
14,000 feet a.s.l. (twice as high as Denver), it's not forimmigrant and not native to the region. There are over
those who have weak hearts or respiratory problems.20 different indigenous groups here, each with its own
Most countries send their diplomatic personnel to Lalanguage and most are Amazonic. The Guaraní
Paz (the seat of government) and there are manyare the largest of these (see the movie The Mission -
missionaries, international NGOs and volunteerJeremy Irons, Robert DeNiro). There are great little
organizations because of the high degree of povertytowns like Samaipata (2 hours from the city of Santa
among the indigenous class.Cruz), and smaller cities like Tarija (Bolivia's wine
In these two major cities expats live very well, oftencountry and flower capital) that attract lots of
with a higher living standard than they would in theirlong-stay foreigners and large groups of expat
countries of origin. There are several very largeretirees. There is a lot of tropical wilderness to explore
residential neighborhoods that cater to foreigners andhere and most tourism is eco or adventure tourism.
the Bolivian upper class with modern schools, churches,You can easily take weekend trips or day trips to the
shopping malls, supermarkets, country clubs,dozens of surrounding communities, each with its own
restaurants and very lively night life. There are manyculture and attractions.
affordable and good quality private Bolivian schoolsAspects you have to take into special consideration
(for those who want their children to learn Spanish) asand research thoroughly before you move here
well as American, British and German internationalinclude the altitude in the West, fairly high rental costs if
schools (expensive at $150 to $500 per month and anyou want the standard you are accustomed to, and
initial one-time membership fee of several thousandexpensive international schools. You also have to
dollars, but they conform to US and European schoolconsider your health as medical care is severely
years and standards).lacking throughout the entire country. Even with great
In both cities, and most smaller cities, such as Sucrelong-term international medical insurance some meds
(Bolivia's capital), you can't escape the colonialand technology are just not available. If you plan to live
architecture and dozens of ornate cathedrals,and work here, you cannot arrive on a tourist visa and
cobblestone streets, and colorful open markets. Therelater request residency. It's fairly easy to set up a
is very little zoning and you'll easily find large mansionsbusiness here, but very difficult to find a job if you
mixed in with smaller homes, or surrounded bymove here without a contract. There is no one place in
family-run stores and restaurants, street vendors, andBolivia where you won't soon see severe poverty.
noisy night clubs.Currently the political situation has taken a downturn
Eastern Bolivia (the lowlands) is for those who enjoyand there is no tolerance for foreigners who get
hot (often humid) weather, lots of open space, and apolitically involved, Americans in particular. The food is
laid back lifestyle. This region went from beinggreat and you could learn a new recipe each week
completely ignored and having almost no infrastructurefor the rest of your life. If you can't tolerate disorderly
for over 400 years to being the nation's economictraffic you'll be doing a lot of walking.