Carnaval Captures Panama's Colorful Culture

Normally a laid-back rural town, Las Tablas, capital ofCalidonia. Because Spanish colonization was so strong
Panama's Los Santos province, awakened with thein the region, the Los Santos province was and still is
vengeance of a true fiestero this year. Massive floatsstrongly Christian - so much so, that when the religious
the size of coast guard cutters, carrying trumpetingdenominations disagreed about which patron saint to
bands and towering, brightly colored paper-machécelebrate, the riff divided the town into those from
figures, maneuvered through the throng ofCalle Arriba and those from Calle Abajo.
carnival-goers. The stunning local Las Tablas queens,The La Placita region of Los Tablas soon became the
adorned in painstakingly hand-stitched pollera gowns,headquarters for Calle Arriba; and Barrio de Punta
feather headdresses and golden crowns, rhythmicallyFogon, Calle Abajo's. The two sections of town began
gyrated their hips to the beat of the bongos. Firegathering the prettiest girls, parading them, while singing
hoses from second-story balconies sprayed down ontheir insults to the opposing group. Finally priests
the dancing crowd of Calle Abajo, while everyoneintervened, calling their latter-day verbal slams
excitedly chanted "Get up, get up, Calle Abajo!".blasphemous under the banner of religious celebrations.
Whether you were rooting for Calle AbajoStill, Calle Abajo and Calle Arriba kept up their rivalry,
(downtown) or Calle Arriba (uptown), it seemed ashaving their festivities coincide with those of the
though costumes, feathers, and fluorescent lights wereEuropean carnival.
the only things one needed to keep going strongThe calles began officially electing their respective
through the night.queens around 1950, setting the stage for the
Las Tablas is arguably the best town in which tomodern-day Carnival, celebrations filled with such pride
experience Panama's infamous Carnival celebration,a rule about families had to be created. It states that if
though every town in Los Santos has its own uniquethe mother of the family is from Calle Arriba and the
celebration. Indeed, it is the region's strong culturalfather, from Calle Abajo, their children are considered
identity and rich folkloric tradition that have marked it asfrom Calle Arriba, and vice versa. There are very few
Panama's next hotspot.exceptions to this rule.
"We chose this area in large part because of itsNowadays, floats traversing the massive crowd of the
wonderful heritage and authentic character," marksLas Tablas Carnival sport professional sponsorship,
Daniel Rudasevski of Andromeda Ocean Estates, afireworks rival those of the US Super Bowl, Calle
luxury Panama beachfront real estate development inAbajo and Calle Arriba have their own websites,
Pedasí, Los Santos.  "Our proximity to Las Tablasgovernment agencies and banks close, traditional
and the exuberant celebrations there are a verysancocho (chicken soup with yucca or nyame) is
important part of the appeal to our clients.  In fact,served, and hotels and hostels fill up months in
Pedasí is also known for its outstanding fiestas,advance. Queens are elected on Friday and Carnival
which though they are on a smaller scale than Lascelebrations don't end until the following Tuesday.
Tablas, have a special flavor all their own."This year's chosen queens were Noris Edith Vasquez
Las Tablas becomes the focal point of the countryfor Calle Abajo, and Mileydis Vargas for Calle Arriba.
mainly because it's so exciting to watch the annualCarnival days begin with culecos (outdoor dances
"battle" between the Calle Abajo and Calle Arribaconstantly refreshed by fire hoses) and chanted praise
sections of town. This past February 16, the twoor ridicule of the calles. Nights are filled with wild parties
zones once again became steeped in the more thanthat run until the early morning.
50-year tradition of trying to outdo one another.This colorful splash of culture is an integral part of Los
This rich history of gibes and one-upmanship began inSantos' appeal, and one of the most authentic
the early 1900s, with two distinct religiouscelebrations in Panama.
denominations: La Ermita de la Santa Cruz and