| The obese, sour faced Mexican official sweating | | | | vehicle. Some borders are surprisingly trouble free, for |
| gently in the tiny booth doesn't like the look of my | | | | example the one between Colombia and Ecuador, but |
| passport. Bulging from within his damp uniform, he tells | | | | it's worth considering the following points: |
| me that there is an irregularity with my visa stamp. | | | | - If you need to change currency, work out how much |
| Co-incidentally, there's also a problem with my travel | | | | you need and do the calculations at the current |
| companion's passport. Luckily, for a couple of hundred | | | | exchange rate before you arrive. You will have a |
| pesos per person, he can resolve the problem. | | | | number in your head for reference to make sure you |
| The border crossing between Belize and Mexico is not | | | | don't get ripped off by fast-talking changers with |
| the nicest place to be. It's made even worse when the | | | | dodgy calculators. |
| gatekeeper between Chetumal and Corozal tells you | | | | - Pack your patience. Depending on the crowds you |
| that you have two options; return to Mexico and get | | | | could be waiting as an individual traveller a lot longer |
| the proper paperwork, or pay his fee. Fuming, I slide | | | | than those arriving on a long-distance bus or with tour |
| the crumpled notes across the counter and the official | | | | groups. |
| mutters under his breath at the injustice of me asking | | | | - Make 100% sure that your paperwork is in order. Do |
| for a receipt, which I never receive. I return back to our | | | | you have all the right documents for this particular |
| waiting taxi to find out that the driver has doubled our | | | | border? Are you visas and stamps up to date, or |
| fare for the ten minutes spent arguing at the window. | | | | have they expired? Don't give crooked officials the |
| Border crossings. Some go well in Latin America, some | | | | opportunity to find an 'irregularity'. You should check the |
| don't. You're in unfamiliar surroundings with the intention | | | | requirements for your border in your guidebook or |
| to move into another country, not considering going | | | | check a reputable travel forum. |
| back, and everyone at the border knows it. Sad but | | | | - Bribes are an inevitable part of contact with |
| true, the best advice is not to trust anybody. Latin | | | | administrators; for many of them its the only way to |
| Americans are wonderful people, just not at the | | | | improve the miserable salaries that they are paid. Stay |
| borders of their countries. | | | | aware of any suspect diversions from procedure, and |
| Latin American border crossings vary massively | | | | don't be afraid to challenge or call out corruption; you |
| depending on many factors, including the officials | | | | could try asking for a receipt (recibo) or even haggle |
| present, the time of day and the number of people | | | | the cost of the 'service charge' down. Cash is not the |
| crossing. Despite this, there are very clear ways to | | | | only solution either; countless travel forums suggest |
| make your crossing go smoother, or reduce the | | | | commodities to entice officials from gold watches to |
| possibility of problems. | | | | Playboy magazines... |
| The Easy Way | | | | - Keep photocopies of all your important |
| The simplest way by far is to make your transit by | | | | documentation. You never know when they could be |
| long distance bus routes between large towns or cities | | | | asked for, and it's much better to hand them over right |
| in different countries; you won't be hunting around for | | | | away instead of see your papers disappearing into an |
| transport connections or trying to get out of the border | | | | office to be copied, never to return. |
| post or community. Staying on the bus or moving | | | | - If a good friend or a trustworthy travelling companion |
| through immigration in a big group, you'll be in and out in | | | | speaks Spanish, you'll find things a lot easier. However, |
| no time. Anyone wanting to take advantage is much | | | | if you don't speak the language, don't let lots of fast |
| less likely to pick on a big group of tourists; all your | | | | talking and hand-waving get you spooked. Take things |
| paperwork will be processed together as well, and | | | | slowly and use whatever means to communicate |
| officials will be less likely to take the time to single you | | | | clearly and make sure that you understand, and are |
| out. | | | | understood. |
| The (Possibly) Hard Way | | | | Remember, however good or bad border crossings |
| Next up on the scale of difficulty is crossing solo or in | | | | may be, they'll only be a small part of your Latin |
| a small group by public transport, or in your own | | | | American adventure. Good luck on your next journey! |